Shoe and process of making the same



Feb. 15, 1944. J. J. WALSH SHOE AND PROCESS OF MAKING THE SAME Filed April 6, 1942 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR. Joh/M d". WM5/71 I12413.15, 1944. J L WALSH u 2,341,676

SHOE AND PROCESS OF MAKING THE SAME Filed April 6, 1942 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 fir..

IN V EN TOR.

Patented Feb. 15, 1%)44v UNITED l snol: AND PROCESS oF MAKING THE SAME John J. Walsh, Affton, Mo., assignor to Penaljo,

Inc., St. Louis, Mo., a corporation of Missouri' 'f applloatioo Aprile, 1942,' sol-lol No. 431,861

(cl. 1a142l Y(taken approximately on the line Welt-Figo 3 Claims.

This invention relates to a certain newand useful improvement inshoes and to the process of making the same, and this application is a continuation in part of my co-pendingv application for patent for Shoes and process of making the same, filed December 2, 1940, Serial No.

My invention has for its primary objects the provisionof a Ashoe which' is simple and sturdy in structure, -which ls -softand comfortable on ure 15;

Figure 17 is' illustrative of the followingoor-H fifth step inthe production of the shoe, that is` to say, perspectively shows the attached-parts of o Figure 15 with the insole attachedthereto; A

Figure 18 is an enlarged detail sectional view v.taken approximately on the 4line IBF-lli,` Fig the foot, which is light in weight-and attractive in appearance, which requires for its production only a few simple process'operationsreadily performed by relatively unskilled workers with ease and accuracy and with consequentsavings in labor costs and theelimination 'of losses due to faulty and rejected shoes, and which-is eiliciently serviceable.

And with the above and other objects in view, my invention resides in the novel features o1 form, construction, arrangement, and combination of parts and in the unique steps or process of shoe production all presently described and pointed out inthe claims.

In the accompanying drawings (two sheetsY- Figuresll to 10, both inclusive, are correlated perspective views of the"upper,.v counter, com-" panion platform-covering or casing-forming members, insole, insole heel-member, companion `platforrri-members, and` outer-sole, respectively,u

for the construction of a shoe of my invention;

Figure 11 perspectively illustrates the `upper I1 and 2 in :assembled at- Figure 14 is an lenlarged transverseisectional mately on the line. llf-ltlliigure 1 3.; ,y Y

view` .Oftlie partly formed shoe taken approxl- Figure` 15;,is illustrative oft e -next-or-lfourth .n

progressive -Sber in. the production 0f Washoe., that is to;say. perspectively shows;the attached:

parts of Figure A 13.llvith .the front platform-covering r' casing-,forming member in attached-foldable relation thereto;

Figurell is an enlarged' detailzsectonal view'.

ure 17; f

Figure 19 -is a broken perspective view of the i partially completed shoe of Figure 17 with the rear platform-casing member turned down, with the front platform-casing member in upwardly presented position relatively to the insole forconvenience in cementin'g thefront platform-meml ber in position, with a front platform-member in applied and adhesively secured relation to the: insole, and with the heel-sole flattener yin position preparatory to application of the rear platform-member; I

Figure 20 is illustrative of the 'shoe in its next production step, that is to say, shows the-partly completed shoe with the rear or heel platformmember in applied and cover-encasing position,

and with the front casing-member turned down 'f preparatory to marginal attachment to and upon the under face of the front platform-member;

Figure 21 shows the partly completed shoe of Figure 20 with the platform-casingfront-mem ber in marginally folded-underv and secured rela'. y

tion to the platform-members;

Figure 22 is an enlarged'I detail sectional'view l Figure zs-isl illustrative of the shoe` followingits next .production step, that is, shows the shoe with the platform-casing rear-member in marginally folded-under and secured relationto the encasedplatform;

Figure24 is an enlarged detail' section takenv approximately on the line 24-24, Figure 23; f Figure 25^ is1a perspective view of a ilnished shoe constructed in accordance with and embodying my invention;v

Figures 26 and v2'1 are enlarged detail sectional views taken approximately on the lines 26-2 Figure 28 isa longitudinal sectional view of shoe constructed in'accordance with and embOdy'- ing-my invention.

Referring now in more detail andibyreferencel characters to; the drawings, which areillustrative bothof a: practical embodiment'of a shoe of `x`ny' present. invention *and of itsy method or l'process of manufacture, the shoe includes anv .upperv A preferably, though not necessarily, of oxford type or conformation and constructed of companion vamp and heel sections I, 2, of suitable leather or other flexible material or stock cut to form and size and stitched together Without lasting along central front and rear seams 3, 4, respectively, as shown in Figure 1.

Disposed within the heel of the upper A and permanently stitched thereto along a base seam 5, a top seam 6, and connecting somewhat sinuous side seams 1, 1, as best seen in Figure 2, is a re enforcing preferably soft counter B.

C designates what may be termed a heel-andouter-sole platform casing or covering, which includes a front section c and a companion rear section c both suitably stamped or cut from stock matching the stock of, and conformable in size and dimensions for shoe-completing co-operation with, the upper A, the strip c being contoured and shaped for marginally covering the front and preferably part of the shank platform porposed with its one or upper margin disposedl in registration with the lower margin of the heelportion 2 of the upper A and with its outer face presented in juxtaposed relation to the outer face of the upper A and, preferably by a single line of stitches 8 extending throughout the perimeter of the shoe at the heel-portion 2 thereof, is permanently joined to the upper A as substantially a unit thereof, and then the front strip c is similarly disposed with respect to the toe and vampportion I of the upper A and, preferably also by a single line of stitches 9 extending throughout the perimeter of the shoe toe and vamp-portion' I, is also permanently' joined to the upper A, as lshown, with its opposite rearwardly presented ends loosely disposed in overlapping relation to the opposite forwardly presented ends of the rear strip c', as best seen in Figure 15.

D designates an insole, which is constructed preferably of easily exible leather or other suitable material of suitable thickness and having a perimeter -or contour conforming in shape and size substantially to that of the lower margin of the upper A, as will be understood, and, as the next step in the production of the nished shoe S of Figures and 28, the connected upper A, counter B, and casing C are marginally gently bent to arcuately extend laterally outwardly, as at I0, Figure `18, to overlie the margin of the insole D and to which the connected casing C, counter B, and upper A are then permanently fixed as by a preferably continuous row of threadstitches Il.

Thereupon the rear casing-strip c and the front casing strip c at its opposite ends only are pulled over and presented in depending relation .from the upper A in the formation of a semicasing with the forwardly presented free endportions of the rear strip c' now overlapping the rearwardly presented free end-portions of the front strip c, as seen in Figure 19.

E designates a platform, which is constructed of or comprises preferably two companion members, that is to say, a front or toe and vamp-sole member e and a rear or combined heel and shank member e', both best seen in Figures 6 and 8. In this connection, it may be noted that the front platform-member e may be constructed of cork, composition, or other suitable preferably lightweight somewhat exible material, may be cut, molded, or otherwise formed to size and shape whichever may be most expedientin view of the type of material employed, and is obliquely skived and beveled at its rear margin,as at I2, while the rear platform-member e' is preferably con-v structed of wood or other lightweight rigid material to preferably integrally comprise a heel of Cuban or other suitable type I3, fixed atwise to and upon the upper face of which is the heelportion of a bre or other substantially rigid forwardly extending shank-member I4 equipped centrally and longitudinally upon its under face with a rigid shank stiifener l5 and equipped upon its upper face with a fillerstrip I6 of cork or other suitable material tapering in thickness to a thin edge along its forward margin, as at Il, for smoothly and evenly meeting the skived endportion I2 of the platform-member e. v

Preferably the upper assembly comprising the upper A, counter B, and insole D of a partially completed shoe isnow conventionally fitted .upon a last (not shown), and suitable adhesive' applied on the under face of the insole D, and

the upper face of the platform-members e and e'.

Then, in successive operations, a platform-member e is fitted and set snugly and evenly upon the under face of the front portion of the insole D, a-

a member F, which has a size and contour conformable with the under face of the heel-portion of the insole D, fitted and vset snugly upon the under face of the heel-portion of the insole D to smoothly support, as it may be said, the corresponding portion of the insole D to receive a rear platform-member e', and a rear platformmember e' then suitably tted and set snugly within the chamber-portion provided by the rear casing-strip c and atwise at its upper fillerface against the under vface of, and in marginal registration with, the heel-member F and smoothly and evenly engaged at its reduced or thin end I1 with the skived end I2 of the front platform-member e, as best seen in Figure 20.

Suitable adhesive is then applied to and upon the exposed marginal4 portion only of the front and rear platform-members e, e', and then, in turn, the front casing-strip c is pulled over the seam or stitches Il and presented, as it may be said, in depending relation from the upper A in the formation of a stitch-concealing welt-roll I8 and in casing-completing relation to the rear 'casing-member c' and marginally turned under and secured adhesively to and upon the under marginal face of the front platform-member e, as best seen in Figure 21, and the rear casingmember c similarly marginally turned under and fixed adhesively to and upon the marginal face of the rear platform-member e', as illustrated in Figure 23. So assembled, the outer face of the casing C is now substantially fully exposed and, through the absence of underlying adhesive, is smooth and attractive along the sides of the shoe, and the rear casing-member c now has its forwardly presented ends preferably loosely overlapping on the sides of the shoe the rearwardly presented ends of the front casing-strip c.

Then adhesively or otherwise suitably secured to and upon the under face of the inturned marginal portion of the front casing-strip c and of the front platform-member e and partially to and upon the under face of the inturned marginal portion of the rear casing-strip c and of the shank-portion I4 of the rear platformmember e', to abut at its rear end against the upper margin of the breast of the heel I3. is

an outer or wearing sole G previously stamped or otherwise conventionally cut in conforming size and contour from a suitable side of sole stock or the like, as will be understood, the sole-member G having a rearwardly presented flexible apron-extension g for disposition over, andl for attachment adhesively to and upon, the breast of heel I3.

A suitable lift I9 being attached to and upon the under face of the covered or casing-enclosed heel I3, and the inserted last being in due course removed following setting of the adhesive, the nished shoe of Figures 25 and 28 results, and in which the combined heel and sole platform E is fully housed and concealed.

The casing C, as shown, provides a chamber for substantially completely housing the platform E, and it will thus be evident that the shoe of my invention is extremely simple in construction and is, at the same time, very iight, flexible, and comfortable on the foot. It will further be evident that, by my invention, I have provided a unique type of shoe and a unique method of making the same, which effects and results in substantial economy, both in material and labor, and which may be practiced on a production basis at high speed and with comparatively unskilled labor.

It should be understood that changes and modii'lcations in the form, construction, arrangement, and combination of the several parts of the shoe may be made and substituted for those herein shown and descrip d without departing from the nature and princi e of my invention.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is: l. The method of making a platform shoe which comprises providing the upper, providing an insole of easily flexible material, providing a pair of front and rear flexible casing strips, marginally flatwise stitching together said upper and insole and said front and rear casing strips with the casing strips upstanding around the upper, folding down the front and rear casing strips to depend around and over the stitched together margins with said casing strips forming a platform receiving chamber, disposing heel and toe platform portions in underlying relation to the middle portion of the easily flexible insole with the stitched together marginal portions resting at their edges against and upon the heel and sole platform portions around the margin thereof, said platform portions including a heel having a forwardly presented breast, folding and cutting and conforming said front and rear flexible casing strips over the sole and heel platform portions and securing the marginal edges thereof on the under sides of the sole and heel platform portions and upon the breast of the heel, forming an outer sole with a rearwardly presented flexible apron extension, securing said outer sole to and over the under faces of the sole and shank platform portions and over the edges of the casing strips, conforming and securing the apron extension over the breast of the heel thereby covering the edges of the heel casing strip as secured upon the breast of the heel and folding and securing the end of this flexible apron extension underneath the lower face of the heel, and then securing a top lift upon the lower face of the heel covering the underfolded edge of the flexible apron and the underfolded edges of the heel casing strip.

2. The method of making a platform shoe which comprises providing an upper of easily flexible material, providing an insole of easily flexible material of a size to have a marginal attaching portion. providing a pair of front and rear easily flexible casing strips, placing the parts together with marginal edges of the insole disposed flatwise lagainst marginal edges of the upper and the casing strips upstanding around the upper with their marginal edges flatwise disposed against the outer side of the upper, securing the several marginal edges together by stitching,

turning the casing strips over to depend downwardly around the upper and to dispose the several marginal edges substantially at right angles to the middle portion of the insole and with the stitching extending through the marginal edges in a plane substantially parallel with the middle portion of the insole, providing platform sole and heel portions and with the heel having a forwardly disposed breast, placing the platform structure within the confines of the downturned casing strips with the lower surface of the middle portion of the insole and the secured together marginal edges of the several members resting upon the upper surface of the platform portions, conforming the sole casing strip over the sole portion of the platform portions and securing the marginal edges thereof over and upon the under side of such sole portion, cutting and conforming the heel casing strip to the heel portion of the platform portions and securing marginal edges thereof upon the forwardly presented breast of the heel and over and upon the under side of the heel and of the shank portion of the platform portions, providing a sole member having a rearwardly presented flexible apron extension, securing said sole member upon the sole and instep portions of the platform portions over the secured marginal edges of the casing strips, securing the flexible apron extension upon the breast of the heel over the edges of the heel casing strip and securing the rearmost end of the apron extension on the under side of the heel. and attaching to and upon the under face of the heel portion a suitable lift covering the underturned edges of the heel casing strip and the apron extension.

3. In a shoe, an upper, an easily flexible insole stitched marginally to the upper with its edge overturned within the upper and disposed substantially at right angles with respect to the middle portion of the insole and the stitching extending in a plane substantially parallel with such middle portion of the insole, heel and toe casing strips stitched at the marginal edges of the upper and overturned to cover the stitching, platform members fitted within the downturned heel and toe casing strips, said casing strips being conformed to the platform members and having their marginal edges secured on the under sides of the sole and instep and heel portions and also upon the forwardly presented breast of the platform structure, a wear-receiving sole member secured over the sole and instep portions of the platform structure and having a ilexible apron portion extending and secured over the breast of the heel with its extremity terminating and secured on the lower face of the heel, and a wear receiving top lift secured upon the lower face of the heel member and consequently covering the secured edge of the apron portion and the marginal edges of the heel strip.

JOHN J. WALSH. 

